In a rare 2016 interview (one of only a handful he has ever given), Page said: "Panic is a luxury you can’t afford. When the water goes dark, you have to find the light in your own chest. That’s not bravery. That’s just training."
Do you have a favorite "unsung hero" of big-wave surfing? Drop a comment below. Or don't. Eben Page probably wouldn't. 🌊
In big-wave surfing, there is a saying: "There are old surfers and there are bold surfers, but there are no old, bold surfers."
But when the charts go red and the National Weather Service issues the "High Surf Warning"—when the tourists are running toward the beach to watch—Eben Page will walk the opposite direction. Toward the water. Toward the quiet.
And then there is Eben Page.